DIOR
Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 Collection
A Timeless Elegance Resurrected
Sublime Magazine delves into the enchanting world of haute couture, a realm where time takes on a distinct rhythm, echoing the meticulous craftsmanship and artistry that defines this exceptional craft. It is a temporal realm, captivating and animated, where memories intertwine with imagination, creating a tapestry that seamlessly weaves the past into the vibrant present. Within the Atelier, no paper patterns are found, as the sketched visions gracefully transform into tangible masterpieces, each bespoke creation embracing the uniqueness of the wearer.
In her latest Dior Haute Couture collection for autumn-winter 2023-2024, Maria Grazia Chiuri embarks on a quest to refine the archetypal elements of couture, capturing their essence with unrivaled perfection. The tunic, the peplum, the cape, and the stole emerge as sartorial symbols, elevated to an almost sacred status. A collaboration with Marta Roberti, an artist who seamlessly fuses the runway with the art gallery, underscores this return to the origins, to the sacred sources that birthed it all. "Studying the iconographies of numerous goddesses, often intertwined with animals, I began to imitate their postures, embodying their peculiarities until I made them my own," reveals Marta Roberti, her words serving as a wellspring of inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri, as she merges the poetic gestures of couture with the body itself.
The models, their presence imbued with a hieratic aura, traverse the runway, following in the footsteps of ancient divinities who once ruled, and still command, the world. Adorned in a vertical silhouette, complemented by flat shoes, they don a color palette of pristine whites, delicate beiges, shimmering silvers, and pale golds. Jackets and coats sculpted with gentle folds beneath the chest evoke the timeless elegance of classical statues and the graceful fluting of ancient columns. Pearls, symbols of purity, manifest in exquisite embroideries, their radiance further enhanced by interwoven silver threads. Reviving the opulent textures of the sixties, long skirts and dresses shimmer with resplendence. Wool and cashmere take center stage, enveloping the wearer in their comforting embrace. A cape, reminiscent of sacred vestments, occasionally adorned with intricate embroidery, enriches a variety of ensembles. Pleating emerges as a protagonist, notably adorning the sleeves of men's jackets, adding a touch of architectural splendor.
By perpetuating the veneration of goddesses and reimagining the revered emblems of antiquity, the défilé evolves into a contemporary ritual, illuminating the delicate yet formidable power of femininity, a force that binds and nurtures the community we collectively form. With a nostalgic nod to the past, this exquisite spectacle guides us towards a future defined by sensitivity and an unwavering commitment to detail, a vision that is truly transformative.
Ancestors of a time to come
"Ancestors of a Time to Come" is a project by Marta Roberti, specially conceived for the Dior haute couture autumn-winter 2023-2024 show. Roberti envisions herself as an ancestor from a future time, where she represents herself as an ancestor of herself. Her work is influenced by her preference for animals, naked bodies, plants, and forests over modern urban life. Her drawings on paper assemble various elements, including animals, goddesses, self-portraits, and fragments of untouched landscapes.
Roberti's imagination is populated by female representations, particularly major goddesses from ancient civilizations, where women and the feminine creative principle were revered as the origin of life. Through the discoveries made by feminist archaeologist Marija Gimbutas, the lost world of Neolithic cultures has been uncovered, revealing an egalitarian society where female power held the highest significance due to its life-giving capacity.
The installation created by Marta Roberti for the Dior haute couture show pays homage to these goddesses, who were believed to govern the universe and were often accompanied by animals such as leopards, bulls, and snakes. Animals play a crucial role in her compositions, representing guiding spirits and coexisting harmoniously with the goddesses. Roberti incorporates self-portraits in yoga positions, symbolizing her desire to reconstruct a forgotten past and heal the present.
In summary, Marta Roberti's project explores the imagery of ancient goddesses and their significance in shaping cultures and the natural world. Through her art, she seeks to reconnect with a lost past and bring attention to the sacredness of life and the environment.
